Hotly Contest-ed
"I have planned a city not like any other city in the world ... I have planned an ideal city ..."
Walter Burley Griffin
"Canberra: Why wait for death?"
Bill Bryson, from In a Sunburned Country
Many things can be said about Canberra, Australia's capital city, the 2 statements above which express the opposite and outspoken sides of the opinion spectrum. For those who are not aware, it is unusual in that it is a totally planned city, whose design was chosen through an international contest, won by Chicago architect Griffin. I have not researched enough to learn what the criteria was in creating this capital city, but from what I have seen, at present it is believed that they were achingly insufficient (who were the judges for this contest anyway??).
Unfortunately or fortunately, depending on whom you side with, my introduction and experience within Canberra was only from a cool Saturday evening to a sunny Sunday afternoon, short and sweet enough for the novelty and newness to have not worn off by the time I departed ... however, the novelty of the 3 hour drive to reach this leafy district had worn off after about 45 minutes. Upon entering the city boundaries, there is an eerie sameness to the length of the "main drag", although it is initially quite green and pleasant and tree-lined. I say sameness because it is block after block of wide streets with a giant island in the middle separating the opposing traffic, traffic lights almost certainly exactly the same distance apart from corner to corner, as if carefully measured with an architect's precision. Oh yeah ...
Finding Olims Canberra Hotel, my accommodation for the night, was no small accomplishment in a dark unfamiliar place, but that I did (after a wrong turn or two), arriving just in time to drop off minimal luggage, only to return to the streets in search of sustenance. Conceivably this was best, for although Olims is one of the city's "most famous hotels" with "BUDGET prices" (true) and is quaint and attractive on the outside, the room left much to be desired, and subsequently I discovered the reception committee and internal computer system to be less than adequate. Thankfully, one of those indispensable city guidebooks directed me to a local restaurant which I hurriedly sought, ravenous for palatable food, and surroundings.
From previous postings one might conclude that I am not too difficult to please in all things gastronomic ... and I was not in the least disappointed in Benchmark Wine Bar (the very first wine bar in Canberra), a cozy and comfortable award winning restaurant, with over 100 wines by the glass. Depending on your budget, it can be expensive, but limit yourself to one glass of wine and a shared dessert, and it should be well within your Saturday night allowance. Speaking of which, it was strangely quiet for a Saturday night ... no throngs of scantily clad twenty-somethings on their way to this club or that bar, no just-washed and waxed babe magnets with rib shakingly loud bass cruising the boulevard, no obvious police prowling for drunk drivers. With a full belly, I left the restaurant, wondering ... is there some secretive corner of town where all the locals socialize, snickering at poor folks like me, searching for the pulse of this city after 9pm?
After again foraging for (breakfast) food and only finding it near or within Canberra Centre (a big mall), I ventured along one of the broad avenues until inevitably a shiny metal spire reaching into the sky demanded my attention, topped by the flapping yet unflappable Australian flag, signifying that I had reached the center of this city, the Parliament House. Say what you must, but I was sincerely impressed with the sheer size of the foyer, with its shiny marble floor and multiple columns, and the main conference hall large enough to fit half of the population, or it would seem. Historically I have not been interested in the routine goings-on within such law making establishments, but thought it would be a welcome addition and round out my Australia adventures thus far ... complemented by a quickie 50 minute tour with Jim, the expert and well-rehearsed yet congenial guide, brimming with obscure yet fascinating facts for our amusement and education. Completing my visit to the House was a trip to the highest public floor, which lent a clear and fabulous view, as far as the eye could see. Nice.
Although I thoroughly enjoyed my mushroom risotto, and was impressed by the marble foyer of the Parliament House, undoubtedly the highlight of my brief trip was the National Museum of Australia. Expansive, all-encompassing, and award winning, this is truly not to be missed. A brief yet thorough and fascinating picture of Australian history and its people awaits you, from the National Historical Collection to the numerous changing exhibitions (including Exiles and Emigrants and Eternity). Except for the outdoor obscure wooden arch sculpture (which brings to mind a rollercoaster) and the quality of the cafe food, I found the museum rather remarkable, not only in size, but in the depth and breadth of the insight to Australia's past.
Having saturated my brain with more details and visuals than it could really absorb in a single afternoon, I had to bid adieu to the museum, and Canberra as well, for the day was getting short, and the drive ahead was long ... and although it is a city that I believe is best described as a place to visit, in my opinion, it's worth it.
Walter Burley Griffin
"Canberra: Why wait for death?"
Bill Bryson, from In a Sunburned Country
Many things can be said about Canberra, Australia's capital city, the 2 statements above which express the opposite and outspoken sides of the opinion spectrum. For those who are not aware, it is unusual in that it is a totally planned city, whose design was chosen through an international contest, won by Chicago architect Griffin. I have not researched enough to learn what the criteria was in creating this capital city, but from what I have seen, at present it is believed that they were achingly insufficient (who were the judges for this contest anyway??).
Unfortunately or fortunately, depending on whom you side with, my introduction and experience within Canberra was only from a cool Saturday evening to a sunny Sunday afternoon, short and sweet enough for the novelty and newness to have not worn off by the time I departed ... however, the novelty of the 3 hour drive to reach this leafy district had worn off after about 45 minutes. Upon entering the city boundaries, there is an eerie sameness to the length of the "main drag", although it is initially quite green and pleasant and tree-lined. I say sameness because it is block after block of wide streets with a giant island in the middle separating the opposing traffic, traffic lights almost certainly exactly the same distance apart from corner to corner, as if carefully measured with an architect's precision. Oh yeah ...
Finding Olims Canberra Hotel, my accommodation for the night, was no small accomplishment in a dark unfamiliar place, but that I did (after a wrong turn or two), arriving just in time to drop off minimal luggage, only to return to the streets in search of sustenance. Conceivably this was best, for although Olims is one of the city's "most famous hotels" with "BUDGET prices" (true) and is quaint and attractive on the outside, the room left much to be desired, and subsequently I discovered the reception committee and internal computer system to be less than adequate. Thankfully, one of those indispensable city guidebooks directed me to a local restaurant which I hurriedly sought, ravenous for palatable food, and surroundings.
From previous postings one might conclude that I am not too difficult to please in all things gastronomic ... and I was not in the least disappointed in Benchmark Wine Bar (the very first wine bar in Canberra), a cozy and comfortable award winning restaurant, with over 100 wines by the glass. Depending on your budget, it can be expensive, but limit yourself to one glass of wine and a shared dessert, and it should be well within your Saturday night allowance. Speaking of which, it was strangely quiet for a Saturday night ... no throngs of scantily clad twenty-somethings on their way to this club or that bar, no just-washed and waxed babe magnets with rib shakingly loud bass cruising the boulevard, no obvious police prowling for drunk drivers. With a full belly, I left the restaurant, wondering ... is there some secretive corner of town where all the locals socialize, snickering at poor folks like me, searching for the pulse of this city after 9pm?
After again foraging for (breakfast) food and only finding it near or within Canberra Centre (a big mall), I ventured along one of the broad avenues until inevitably a shiny metal spire reaching into the sky demanded my attention, topped by the flapping yet unflappable Australian flag, signifying that I had reached the center of this city, the Parliament House. Say what you must, but I was sincerely impressed with the sheer size of the foyer, with its shiny marble floor and multiple columns, and the main conference hall large enough to fit half of the population, or it would seem. Historically I have not been interested in the routine goings-on within such law making establishments, but thought it would be a welcome addition and round out my Australia adventures thus far ... complemented by a quickie 50 minute tour with Jim, the expert and well-rehearsed yet congenial guide, brimming with obscure yet fascinating facts for our amusement and education. Completing my visit to the House was a trip to the highest public floor, which lent a clear and fabulous view, as far as the eye could see. Nice.
Although I thoroughly enjoyed my mushroom risotto, and was impressed by the marble foyer of the Parliament House, undoubtedly the highlight of my brief trip was the National Museum of Australia. Expansive, all-encompassing, and award winning, this is truly not to be missed. A brief yet thorough and fascinating picture of Australian history and its people awaits you, from the National Historical Collection to the numerous changing exhibitions (including Exiles and Emigrants and Eternity). Except for the outdoor obscure wooden arch sculpture (which brings to mind a rollercoaster) and the quality of the cafe food, I found the museum rather remarkable, not only in size, but in the depth and breadth of the insight to Australia's past.
Having saturated my brain with more details and visuals than it could really absorb in a single afternoon, I had to bid adieu to the museum, and Canberra as well, for the day was getting short, and the drive ahead was long ... and although it is a city that I believe is best described as a place to visit, in my opinion, it's worth it.
posted by Jill at
11:45 PM
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